I've been asked to "top" more trees than I can count. Usually it's because someone's worried about storm damage, wants to control size, or thinks it'll make the tree healthier. I understand the reasoning, but I have to be honest – topping trees almost never accomplishes what people hope it will, and it usually creates more problems than it solves.

This isn't about being difficult or trying to talk you out of tree work. It's about what actually works and what doesn't, based on what I've seen happen to trees over the years.

What Tree Topping Actually Does

Tree topping (also called heading, tipping, or hat-racking) means cutting back the main branches to stubs or making cuts between branch junctions. People think this will make trees smaller, safer, or more manageable. Sometimes it looks like it worked – for a while.

But here's what actually happens:

The tree goes into survival mode. It responds to the massive injury by pushing out lots of new growth, fast. These new shoots grow much quicker than normal branches because the tree is trying to replace its lost canopy as quickly as possible.

The new growth is weakly attached. Instead of growing from proper branch junctions, these shoots emerge from the cut surfaces where the tree is trying to heal. They're essentially growing from scar tissue, so they don't have strong connections to the main structure.

The tree becomes more dangerous, not less. Those fast-growing shoots are heavier than the original branches and more likely to break off. Within a few years, you often have more weight up top than you started with – except now it's poorly attached.

Why People Think Topping Works

I understand why tree topping seems logical:

It reduces size immediately – there's no arguing that cutting off half a tree makes it smaller right away.

It looks like you're solving the problem – big tree, small tree, problem solved.

Some trees survive it – especially young, vigorous trees can push through the damage, which makes people think it worked.

It's cheaper than proper pruning – cutting everything at one height is faster than careful, selective pruning.

But surviving isn't the same as thriving. Most topped trees develop serious problems within a few years.

The Long-Term Reality

I've followed up on topped trees years later, and the pattern is depressingly consistent:

Year 1-2: Tree looks smaller, lots of new growth appears. People think it worked.

Year 3-5: New growth becomes heavy and starts breaking off. Tree looks messy and overgrown again.

Year 5-10: Major structural problems develop. Branches fail during storms. Tree becomes a genuine hazard.

Year 10+: Tree often needs complete removal because it's become too dangerous or unhealthy to save.

The irony is that topping usually creates the exact problems it was supposed to prevent – storm damage, excessive size, and safety concerns.

Species That Handle It Worse

Some trees are more sensitive to topping than others, but none of them really benefit from it:

Bradford pears – already prone to splitting, topping makes this much worse Oaks – slow to recover, vulnerable to disease through large cuts Maples – tend to develop lots of weak water sprouts Most evergreens – often die or never recover properly from severe topping

Fast-growing species like willows or poplars might survive topping better, but even they develop structural problems over time.

What Works Instead: Proper Pruning Techniques

If you're concerned about tree size, storm safety, or general health, there are better approaches that actually accomplish your goals:

Crown Reduction

Instead of cutting branches to stubs, crown reduction involves cutting back to smaller lateral branches. This maintains the tree's natural shape while reducing overall size. The tree keeps its structural integrity, and new growth develops normally.

Selective Pruning

Removing specific branches that are actually problematic – dead, crossing, or poorly attached – while leaving the healthy structure intact. This is more time-consuming than topping, but it addresses real problems without creating new ones.

Canopy Thinning

Reducing density without reducing size by removing some branches throughout the canopy. This reduces wind resistance and weight while maintaining the tree's natural form.

Crown Raising

If the issue is branches too low over structures or walkways, raising the crown by removing lower branches solves the problem without damaging the tree's health.

When Size Really is the Problem

Sometimes trees just get too big for their location. Proper solutions depend on why size is a concern:

If it's about power lines: Directional pruning away from lines, or line clearance done by utility companies.

If it's about roof clearance: Crown raising to lift branches up and away.

If the tree is genuinely too big for the space: Sometimes removal and replacement with a more appropriate species makes more sense than ongoing battles with an oversized tree.

If it's about storm concerns: Proper structural pruning to remove weak branches and improve wind resistance.

The Economics of Proper Pruning

I know proper pruning costs more upfront than topping. It takes longer, requires more skill, and involves more careful decision-making. But the long-term economics usually favor doing it right:

Topped trees need work more often – those fast-growing water sprouts require frequent trimming.

Topped trees fail more often – storm damage, branch failures, and safety issues cost money to address.

Topped trees often need early removal – instead of living 50-100+ years, they might last 10-20.

Property damage from failed branches can be expensive and dangerous.

When you factor in the ongoing costs and risks, proper pruning usually costs less over the life of the tree.

What About Pollarding?

Sometimes people point to pollarding (a traditional technique of cutting trees back to the same points each year) as evidence that topping works. But pollarding is different:

Pollarding starts with young trees and creates a specialized structure over many years.

It requires annual maintenance to work properly.

It's done on specific species that tolerate this treatment.

It's not the same as topping mature trees that weren't designed for this kind of pruning.

Proper pollarding is an art form that takes years to establish and maintain. It's not what most people mean when they ask for tree topping.

When I Won't Do the Work

I've learned to be upfront about this: I won't top trees because I know it doesn't accomplish what homeowners want and often creates bigger problems down the road.

This sometimes means turning down work, but I'd rather have that conversation upfront than deal with the aftermath of badly damaged trees a few years later.

If someone specifically wants topping done, I'll explain what I think will happen and suggest alternatives. Sometimes that changes their mind, sometimes they find someone else to do the work. I'm okay with that.

Red Flags in Tree Service Companies

Companies that push tree topping without discussing alternatives, or that claim topping is good for trees, might not have your long-term interests in mind. Good tree care focuses on tree health and proper techniques, not just doing whatever the customer asks for.

The Bottom Line

Tree topping might seem like a quick fix for size or safety concerns, but it usually creates more problems than it solves. The new growth is weaker, the tree becomes more dangerous, and you end up dealing with ongoing issues for years.

Proper pruning techniques cost more upfront but solve problems without creating new ones. They maintain tree health, preserve safety, and give you results that last.

If you're concerned about a tree's size, safety, or health, there are almost always better solutions than topping. The key is working with someone who understands those alternatives and can help you choose the approach that actually accomplishes your goals.

Have questions about what makes sense for your specific situation? Give us a call or text at (423) 443-4533. We can talk through what you're trying to accomplish and find approaches that actually work long-term.